Magical Udaipur

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We arrived to Udaipur in the evening and had dinner at the City Palace.

We arrived to Udaipur in the evening and had dinner at the City Palace.

Wildlife.

Wildlife.

This was the first time we managed to walk around and explore. So far it has been impossible and life threatening.

This was the first time we managed to walk around and explore. So far it has been impossible and life threatening.

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City Palace.

City Palace.

Wildlife.

Wildlife.

Lunch at a lovely healthy and allergy-aware little restaurant. They even did gluten-free chapatis!

Lunch at a lovely healthy and allergy-aware little restaurant. They even did gluten-free chapatis!

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Udaipur is very colourful with poisonings like this on the walls all over town.

Udaipur is very colourful with paintings like this on the walls all over town.

Wildlife :)

Wildlife 🙂

City Palace.

City Palace.

Lake Palace at night.

Lake Palace at night.

Tonights dinner. Starters - chicken tikka, tandoori stuffed potato and spinach-chickpea kebab.

Tonight’s dinner. Starters – chicken tikka, tandoori stuffed potato and spinach-chickpea kebab.

A good selection of mains.

A good selection of mains (smoked mutton curry, stuffed tomato masala, vegetable jalfrezi, mushroom and pea curry, sun dried split green lentil dumplings with potatoes).

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Gulub Jamun with ice cream - yum.

Gulub Jamun with ice cream – yum.

Old Delhi – an assault on the senses

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If you want to experience a traditional bustling Asian city, it doesn’t get much more authentic then Delhi.

It was one of the most bizarre experiences we’ve had in India so far. We spent 4 hours in traffic to get from Gurgaon to pick up Jason and head to Old Delhi where we scheduled a street food tour. But that was just the beginning…

Crazy Old Delhi.

Crazy Old Delhi.

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First stop – Aloo Tikki (fried potato and pea patties)

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Some bizarre fruit called kiwi (?!) Wasn't safe to try though.

Some bizarre fruit called kiwi (?!) Wasn’t safe to try though.

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Jalebi – deep fried doughnut-like spiral soaked in sugar sirup. So sweet I felt sick for a while. Don’t think I’ll be having that ever again!

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Pea samosas.

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Gurudwara – a Sikh temple during service.

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Looking ridiculous but respectful.

Looking ridiculous but respectful.

At the Sikh temple they provide a free meal to everyone who attends the service. They feed more then 15000 people every day! The chapati makes are a well oiled machine :)

At the Sikh temple they provide a free meal to everyone who attends the service. They feed more then 15000 people every day! The chapati makers are a well oiled machine 🙂

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Burfi, David’s favourite Indian sweet.

Crazy Old Delhi.

Crazy Old Delhi.

Spice market. Supposed to be the biggest in Asia but I thought that was a slight exaggeration.

Spice market. Supposed to be the biggest in Asia but I thought that was a slight exaggeration.

Last stop -

Last stop – mutton korma (has nothing to do with the English idea of a korma) and mutton kebabs.

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At this point we were already an hour later then planned and were sure we’re missing our afternoon flight to Udaipur. By some miracle and the shortest car journey of all week we just caught it and started a new adventure in Udaipur – city of lakes…

Jaipur and Agra

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After the day with the elephants we spent a few days sightseeing in Jaipur and Agra.

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Amber Fort in Jaipur.

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Amber Fort.

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The view.

Jantar Mantar observatory.

Jantar Mantar observatory.

Traffic.

Traffic.

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The only time we got bullied into taking a guide was at Fatehpur Sikri, an ancient city 40km west of Agra. He insisted on some incredibly touristy pics but this one I quite liked.

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Agra Fort.

Agra Fort.

The view of the Taj in the distance.

The view of the Taj in the distance.

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At Agra Fort.

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The Taj Mahal.

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Looking from the Taj towards the entrance.

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Wildlife.

Wildlife.

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Akbar’s Mausoleum.

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Elefantastic!

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David loves animals and wildlife so today we spent the day on an elephant farm near Jaipur. When we arrived we were given a lovely 28 year old lady elephant (elephantess?) and spent a while getting to know her and feeding her millet plant bundles. Then came the painting (we are not at all artistic), washing and a ride. Of course while we were riding, the sky opened up and we were completely drenched so no pictures of that part.

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They helped with the outline and we coloured it.

They helped with the outline and we coloured it.

David was a bit more artistic.

David was a bit more artistic.

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We gave her a a good scrub.

David needed a wash too :)

David needed a wash too 🙂

We both ganged up on him.

We both ganged up on him.

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We had an amazing day!

First day in India

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Last night we started our Indian adventure. We managed to get a good deal with BA Premium Economy which made the flight more comfortable then usual. We were also lucky with food, curry for dinner and breakfast, was great.

Cheers!

Cheers!

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Dinner in the sky.

Dinner in the sky.

We must admit, for a first-timer, India is really overwhelming. Hot, humid, sticky, loud and crowded are definitely the first impressions. Not to mention cows, goats, pigs, camels and elephants walking on the motorway.

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Thank you to Subhash Gubta (one of the top Indian bridge players) for meeting us at the airport and helping us with the arrangements.

Our first stop is Jaipur where we are staying for three days.

Tonight we had our first meal in India. We went for a safe option of a “Trip Advisor approved” slightly touristy but extremely charming Peacock rooftop restaurant not far from our hotel.

Hungry David.

Hungry David.

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It was the best Indian meal we have ever had. We went vegetarian (as we probably will for most of our stay here) and ordered a Chana Masala (chickpea curry), a Kadhai Paneer (Indian cheese with tomato and onion gravy and peppers), a Mushroom Matar (mushroom and pea curry) and a Tandoori Fish Tikka Masala. The clarity and intensity of all dishes was superb and we are going to sleep two happy, well fed people.

Marusa insisted it was too much food but David wouldn't listen.

Marusa insisted it was too much food but David wouldn’t listen.

We almost managed the whole lot!

We almost managed the whole lot!

Our ride back to the hotel.

Our ride back to the hotel.

On our way to India

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Waiting for our flight at Heathrow T5.

Waiting for our flight at Heathrow T5.

With the Bermuda Bowl starting in Chennai in a little over a week, Marusa and I are going to India early to see some sights and enjoy some local food and culture.

We are planning to visit Delhi, Jaipur and Agra on our own and in a few days our friend Jason Hackett is joining us for a food tour in Delhi and a few days in Udaipur.

During the competition, Marusa will try and update the blog every day with pictures, news, results and interesting bridge hands.

With the current scandals ripping through our precious bridge world, hopefully we can have a nice clean tournament.

Of course as always I look forward to competing and to seeing my friends from around the World!

Curry Laksa (gluten free)

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This is one of my all time favourite dishes and I have recently discovered how to make an amazing one. Marusa and I have played around with it a bit and this is what we have come up with.

Serves: 4 (2 Davids)

Ingredients:

  • 12 prawns (raw and shell on is essential)
  • Silken tofu
  • 1 can of coconut milk
  • Fish sauce (a good glug)
  • 1 tbl spoon of palm sugar
  • Rice noodles
  • Chicken Breast

For the paste:

  • 4 dry kashmiri chillis (soaked in hot water for half an hour)
  • 2 stalks of chopped lemon grass (beaten with a pestle to release flavour)
  • a finger of ginger
  • a couple of large cloves of garlic
  • 2 tsps of curry powder (we mix our own using cumin, coriander, turmeric, chilli powder)
  • a couple of shallots
  • 2 tsp of shrimp paste (easily findable in a chinese supermarket)

Garnish:

  • bean sprouts
  • fresh lime juice
  • (you can experiment here, once we added raw cucumber for crunch and texture)

The first job is the stock. Peel the prawns (keeping the shells!) and clean out the intestinal tract. Now fry the prawn shells in a little vegetable oil for a minute then add about 1 litre of water and simmer gently for half an hour to produce a stock.

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While the stock is simmering, make the curry paste by blending the paste ingredients (use a food processor, stick blender or pestle&mortar). When that is done cut the tofu into small pieces and fry in vegetable oil until a nice golden brown on each side.

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Now get rid of the prawn shells so you get a nice stock. Fry the paste in a little vegetable oil for a minute or two and add the stock. Now add the chicken breast, cut it into nice thin bite size strips. At the same time cook your rice noodles in separate boiling water for a few minutes (until soft). Simmer until the chicken is almost cooked, literally 5-10 minutes.

Now add the prawns, the coconut milk and the palm sugar and cook for a few minutes so that the prawns are just cooked, then squeeze plenty of lime juice and add the fish sauce – add a bit, then add more if you feel it needs it, don’t skip this step it is vital.

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You will find that the fish sauce and lime juice add an amazing lift to the flavor. To serve put the tofu, noodles and bean sprouts in the bottom of your soup bowl and ladle the yummy soup on top. Some crispy onion and or garlic is a nice treat to sprinkle on top. And if you’re feeling adventurous, a spoon of sambal (chilly paste, easily available in any Chinese supermarket) is highly recommended, it will take the dish to another level! Enjoy!

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Gluten-free Vegeterian Falafel Scotch Eggs

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In the last two years I have been discovering just how much English food is under-rated. One of the ‘hidden gems’ are surely Scotch Eggs.

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Being over 32 degrees in Ljubljana ever since we’ve been back from Norway and England, the heat is really getting to me. Of course the only solution is a picnic in the wild! Apparently there is no picnic without Scotch Eggs, but since David is gluten intolerant (not celiac, be careful with the recipe if allergic) and my sister is not a big pork meat lover I had to make some tweaks.

I found this recipe on the BBC GoodFood web site (which I love to use) but  it calles for the use of flour and breadcrumbs. I used the all-purpose gluten free flour and because I couldnt find GF breadcrumbs I just used finely crushed GF crackers (onion flavoured went very well in the falafel mix).

You need:

9 eggs → don’t boil all 9 as I did 🙂 one egg is for the falafel mix
a bit of olive oil → a couple of spoons to fry the onions
2 large onions, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, crushed
1 tbsp ground cumin
1 tbsp ground coriander
a 400g can of chickpeas (garbanzo beans if you are American)
fresh coriander → I didn’t use it because it’s not trivial to get here
150g GF breadcrumbs → the recipe said 200g but this is plenty
5 tbsp GF flour → I use the all purpose mix
oil for frying

Hard boil 8 eggs (will try and make it Heston style liquid centre someday but not really good for a picnic) and peel when cold. I suggest undercooking rather then overcooking the eggs because they cook a bit more later when you fry them.

Fry the onions and garlic in a pan until really soft and golden. Why are cooking instructions always so funny? Onions never turn golden but they get brown. And then if you keep waiting they turn black. Do not let them turn black. I suggest doing it on a low heat because if you overheat garlic it burns and gets very bitter and horribly unpleasant. Add the spices and fry a bit longer. Again, do it on a low heat, burned spices are no treat (bitter).

Using a food processor or a stick blender (immersion blender) whizz into a paste. Then add chickpeas (and coriander leaves) and pulse until its finely chopped but not pasty. You want some texture, noone likes baby food.

Stir in the GF breadcrumbs, GF flour and the last egg (beaten) and season generously. I find it best to beat the egg in a bowl and add salt and pepper to the egg before mixing it into the falafel mix. I think the seasonings incorporate with the mix better this way. If you like it spicy add chilli powder. I know it’s messy but my suggestion is go in there with your hands and mix it all up. Its actually great fun 🙂

Divide the mixture into 8 and wrap the cooked eggs. The mixture is quite sticky but brushing your hands with a bit of oil helps. I think the best way to wrap the egg is to flatten the mixture in your hand (like a big thin burger), put the egg in the middle and close up on the top. Make sure the egg is evenly covered then roll it between your hands to form a nice ball.

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We fried them like that but I guess it’s even better if you roll them in a mixture of GF breadcrumbs and sesame seeds before frying. Or get creative and crush some GF corn flakes to make it extra super crunchy.

Fry the eggs in a deep pan (or a deep fryer) for about 2 minutes until crispy and looks cooked.

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Scotch Eggs go great with a cold spicy yogurt sauce (just mix greek yogurt, sour cream, a squeeze of lemon juice and a bit of chilly powder).

Istanbul eats

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I have been in Istanbul for the last few days with Kevin and Maruša. Yesterday, our second day we visited the spice markets and the Grand Bazaar.

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We bought some saffron and sumak as well as some amazing Turkish delight (I love the stuff). I have decided I must have sumak in my cupboard at all times, it is absolutely magical on salads. Last night we had an incredible tomato salad which was tomatoes, red onions and a dressing made from pomegranate, oil and sumak.

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We went to a famous restaurant which centers around the ockabasi grill, basically a large charcoal pit which must be on view. You can even get a seat right by the grill if you can take the heat. We had minced lamb which was really excellent, chicken which was good but the real highlight was the lamb kidneys which we had to order a second portion of.

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Today we visited the fish markets, not big but plenty of fresh fish and seafront restaurants cooking the catch of the day. We tried a mix of all the fish caught on the day and it was great.

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This city is so vibrant, so full of life. Even at night time the streets are packed, shops open, smells of barbeque, spices, bakery’s. Truly a great city.

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20150528_225035Tommorow Maruša heads back to Ljubljana and Kevin and I fly to Izmir to take part in the Assael festival in Cesme.

Şerefe!

Şerefe!

Upcoming Events

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On Friday I fly to Frankfurt where I will meet up with Kevin Castner. Kevin is a regular client of mine but he is an excellent player in his own right.
He comes from Berkeley California but splits his time between Berkeley, London (where he plays alot of rubber bridge) and Frankfurt – his wonderful wife Anja is German.

Kevin and I after winning the TGRs auction pairs  in 2014.

Kevin and I after winning the TGRs auction pairs in 2014.

They have become good friends of mine but that is not the only reason for my visit: on Saturday, Sunday and Monday we will take part in the ‘6th Gros-Supercup’ in Hohenroda. The event is privately organised by Michael Gromöller, one of Germany’s top players. This is an auction pairs event, similar to TGRs or the Cavendish.

On Wednesday the 27th Kevin and I will fly to Istanbul where Marusa will meet us for a few days holiday.
Then on the 31st Kevin and I fly to Izmir where we will take part in the Assael Bridge Festivial. This tournament is held in memory of the great Turkish player, Salvador Assael who died in 2012 at just 57 years old. I played against him many times and as well as being a terrific player he was a lovely guy. One of the nicest opponents I ever played against. He was a giant of Turkish bridge and a huge loss for them. The tournament is organised by Nafiz Zorlu, another great player and great guy, who became a world champion last year by winning the World Mixed Teams in Sanya.

On the 5th I fly back to Ljubljana where I am planning to take part in the ‘Days of Slovenian Bridge Tournament’ which is a 3 day Board-a-match teams and the event will see the winners of national championships throughout the year receive their medals. Since there is play on the 5th I will need a team of 5 or 6. If I get a team I will report on that event too.

Hopefully I will have some interesting bridge hands, culinary tales and pictures for you, appologies in advance for any delays in posting them.